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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2010 :  17:13:48  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Any body ever heard of using gas line antifreeze to dry up water in a hydraulic tank? This is for my boom truck not my Telebelt
Terry

Godfather

USA
1909 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2010 :  17:40:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Cheaper to park truck overnite on a slope towards the tank drain valve, then bleed off the settled water in the morning.

To dump off accumulated wet air, tweak drain valve open a tiny bit, let the air bleed down overnight. Wisdom saves you two cents and enough sales tax to buy more Blue Moon.
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Speedy

Canada
4194 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2010 :  18:10:17  Show Profile  Visit Speedy's Homepage  Send Speedy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
I think that the water/alcohol mix would still be heavier than the hydraulic oil, therefore, still sit at the bottom of the tank. I may be wrong.

Besides, if water is no good in a hydy system, what would alcohol do?

Did you here about this from someone? Or is this a thought of your'n?

If you can't fix it with a hammer....you've got an electrical problem.
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b.alto

USA
1001 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2010 :  18:42:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I remember Boom Driver gave advice as to making a heating device and recirculating the oil. Its one of the only ways to get rid of water. Besides letting it sit and draining every morning. If you can get the oil temp up it will condense the water out. I think his advice was to drain into a 50 gallon drum and heat it up? Good idea about the alcohol though. I don't know if it would work or not. Need to ask a chemist, maybe a pharmacist.
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Speedy

Canada
4194 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2010 :  19:23:04  Show Profile  Visit Speedy's Homepage  Send Speedy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
If you put the drum under vaccuum, then the water will come out of the oil faster and you'll actually get a higher percentage removed too. A very good practice is to have a filter cart set up and run it every 200 pumping hours or so.... You can get filters that will trap nearly all the water in the oil.

If you can't fix it with a hammer....you've got an electrical problem.
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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  02:26:23  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think I will just have to get it back to the shop and warm it up ovenite,and see if I can find a plug in the bottom of the resevor.

It seems if it gets to avout zero outside the slew valve seems to freeze up. Yes a friend told me about the anifreeze,but I did'nt think it was a good idea so I thought I would just bouce it of you guys. This truck hardly ever gets back to the shop as it just goes from site to site when we a busy.
Maybe I will take the time to install a ball valve onto the drain plug and just keep pulling the water off that way.
Terry
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Godfather

USA
1909 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  04:47:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Do we BUY hydr pump oil with water in it? NO.

Do we RUN hydr pump oil with water in it? NECESSARY EVIL.

Water is heavier than alcohol and oil; contaminating solids are also heavier.

Specific gravities: Alcohol .77// Hydr Oil .87// Water 1.00

Alcohol FLOATS on top of oil; alcohol is a contaminant, not an "additive".

Oil FLOATS on top of water.

Water never goes into solution with alcohol or oil.

Warm water and contaminting solids in agitated warm oil are in suspension (not dissolved). Water and contaminants in hydr systems never dissolve and blend into pure solution.

When a hydr system is shut down, the oil cools, water cools and particle-solids stop moving.

Suspended water and contaminant solids settle to lowest tank levels.

For hydraulic purposes, drain valves must be on the tank BOTTOMs, near corner ends, lowest possible drainage points.

You'll never drain off 100% of the contaminants, but daily procedure will certainly improve the oil and system life.

Maybe our government Czar could change the Laws of Physics?

I don't wonder what the Hydraulics Super Genius says about this.

For very cold temps, try patience and longer warm-ups. Or buy a generator set, put electric heat blankets or heating pads on vulnerable system parts.
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Speedy

Canada
4194 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  05:32:30  Show Profile  Visit Speedy's Homepage  Send Speedy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Terry, you are aware of the shop-vac trick for performing work on hydraulic components without draining the tank, right? Yes, do install a drain valve.

GF, I guess I should have googled the SG of oil...my bad.

If you can't fix it with a hammer....you've got an electrical problem.
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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  06:33:30  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Speedy

Terry, you are aware of the shop-vac trick for performing work on hydraulic components without draining the tank, right? Yes, do install a drain valve.


No, but I am guessing to get a tight fit with the vac and it will keep from having to drain the oil all out?

I think if I put about a 6" pipe nipple on the bottom before the valve I could assure myself that that is the lowest spot, in ref. to GF statement.

Terry
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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  06:37:43  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Anybody know (just to save me a trip out in the snow) if the TB105 has a drain plug on the the hydy tank? I've not changed the filters yet, but I think they have a "foot valve" thing to keep from draining oil.

Terry
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Godfather

USA
1909 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  09:15:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If there isn't a drain valve in the tank bottom, your builder saved 40 bucks. 6" nipple welded outside the tank bottom? Too long! Otherwise why?

Find a corner spot high enough where the bottom drain system won't be vandalized or hit and broken by an impact.

Remove the vent-oil breather on top of the tank and connect a shop vac with a loose fitted hose to draw a partial vacuum; you need a helper man to keep his hand and a raq on the air-suck connection.

Weld a 1" x close steel nipple, convenient to where you can reach for drain-off collections into a container. Break the tank floor through the welded nipple. A momentary oil flush will rinse the cuttings out of the tamk; that's why the helper man.

In this order, the parts you need :
545 Loctite, red (metric red), applied to all male threads
Schedule 80, lifetime installation, all npt, no used-stretched tapered threads
1" x close steel (weldable) nipple
1" street 90 ell (one end male, the other female)
1" x close nipple
1" Apollo Ball Valve (#70-101?), 1/4 turn open close)
1" Plug, to prevent oil drainage if valve is accidentally opened.

Thirty five bucks and two hours max will do the deed, you're professional. Do drain-offs every morning before you move the pump kit.

Adfinitum to an earlier post, I suggested a generator set. Great convenience, but hide the generator. Otherwise you might be powering their tools for free.



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b.alto

USA
1001 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  10:08:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Terry there has to be a drain. How would you drain the oil? and it would have to be on the very bottom to get all the oil out. I would think the engineers would have built one into the tank for drain off. Call the company and ask for a mechanic they'll know.
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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  10:24:34  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes I'm sure their is an existing drain plug to work off of the truck is out on a job site right now and it's snowing like crazy out. I will take a look at it tomorrow. Tank sits about 4' off the ground so clearance and vandals aren't a problem. Should have dealt with it during warm weather. If I bring the truck in my heated shop it only takes an hr. to thaw. But if I get the drain on it I can keep an eye on it daily or weekly. T
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b.alto

USA
1001 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  11:09:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your getting the snow that left us this morning. I just spent an hour and a half getting unstuck out on the lake. I wonder why i was the only fool out there? I had to humble myself and ask my brother in law to come pull me out. I hate asking for help. !4" pack you have to hold it down and go. Kind of hard on the old chevy.
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whole9yards

USA
898 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  12:46:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by terry

Anybody know(just to save me a trip out in the snow) if the TB105
has a drain plug on the the hydy tank? I've not changed the filters yet but I think they have a "foot valve" thing to keep from draining oil. Terry

Depends on the year. Most have a 3/4" pipe plug in a bottom corner. If you have suction filters, they have foot valves that keep oil from draining out. The filter housings project about a foot up in to the tank. The Rotec-style had 6" risers.

You might be surprised how little water you get, because of the pressurized tank.





-W9Y
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terry

421 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2010 :  14:40:54  Show Profile  Visit terry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by b.alto

Your getting the snow that left us this morning. I just spent an hour and a half getting unstuck out on the lake. I wonder why i was the only fool out there? I had to humble myself and ask my brother in law to come pull me out. I hate asking for help. !4" pack you have to hold it down and go. Kind of hard on the old chevy.



That playing(or fishing)in the snow sure are two different animals aren't they?
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