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Adjusting Proportional Controls

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Topic URL: http://forum.concretepumpingadvice.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1310
Printed on: 08/27/2014

Topic:


Topic author: navigator
Subject: Adjusting Proportional Controls
Posted on: 04/13/2008 10:14:19
Message:

Everything is proportional on my machine but the retract.
Watching the handle when I retract ... it doesn't follow my joystick.
Rather .... it simply imparts too much volume right off the bat. It's proportional at higher retraction rates but starts with a jerk. (Don't comment Robustus!)
Swing, boom extend are all proportional and follow the stick.
Where do I look to make an adjustment to my machine to mellow out the retract?

Replies:


Reply author: spikey
Replied on: 04/13/2008 11:36:27
Message:

is your remote adjustable?


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/13/2008 12:46:49
Message:

Hetronic is the only cordless I've adjusted. Since your machine is much newer, I'm betting you have an HBC, I'm not sure how similar they are. On our Hetronics there are two screws per function (in the receiver, I don't remember the order) one will adjust how the function engages, the other controls the operation of that function after engagement. If I can remember, I'll try to take a pic of our's, I know we have a schematic somewhere that shows what each screw is for.

Seems like we just had this topic recently. I got the impression whole9yards was a pretty well rounded guy when it comes to conveyors, hopefully he will chime in on this for you. If not I would give Kevin (at Illinois) a call. Call when you are near the machine and I'm sure he will be able to walk you through it.


Reply author: biged
Replied on: 04/13/2008 13:42:43
Message:

Are you talking to me Nav


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/13/2008 19:07:14
Message:

Yes, Fish, It's HBC. I finally looked.
I took the remote apart today. The joy stick that controls the squirt seems to be a proximity pick up...or maybe a magnet sensor. I can't really see inside....it looked like it had set screws in the control handle that vary with proximity to a plate.
There was no glaring light bulb with a screw saying: Turn me Nav!
... Or ... I would have turned something.
In my case, there appeared to be dirt or perhaps little metal dust between the contacts of the squirt in side.
I cleaned it with a piece of paper but haven't had a chance to test it.


Robustus...Just trying to get you in the habit of making useful thoughtful posts, or at the very least, something funny every now and again.
Read again and see if you pick it out.


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/14/2008 21:39:29
Message:

It was a busy day today. I didn't have much time, but I will try to get a pic and some info tomorrow.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/14/2008 22:18:27
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Fishbone

It was a busy day today. I didn't have much time, but I will try to get a pic and some info tomorrow.


Yeah...right! You were writing your name on some broads boob!
;-)


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/15/2008 17:42:58
Message:

There's always time for boobs!

Here's the inside of my receiver, you probably have an HBC so this may not do you any good. I labeled the adjustment screws. I don't remember which set does which function, nor could I find our schematic.



This is one of our spare joysticks. The contacts that I labeled will get dirty from time to time. Be very carefull cleaning them. I believe you should only use 90% isopropyl alcohol and very low air pressure, like a can you use to clean a keyboard, and not full blast. Your best bet is to just move the joystick rapidly back and fourth (ya I know) for a minute or so. No need to remove it for this, and it will often make a difference.



You may also want to make sure all the slides in your boom are clean. Sometimes there is enough resistance to cause the retract function to not engage until you've already gone past the initial engagement. In other words it may not begin to retract until you're already at half or full speed retraction.

I've never run into that problem, but when I ran your situation past Ed, this was his first suggestion. He said he has had dirty slides cause this on his 75'er.

If this doesn't help... hopefully whole9, smoothbelt or someone else will have another suggestion for you.


Reply author: biged
Replied on: 04/15/2008 18:16:07
Message:

ARE YOU A LITTLE SQUIRT OR A BIG SQUIRT


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/17/2008 08:33:24
Message:


Look at the cover of your receiver. If HBC, it will be a model 730 or 735.

Which do you have?

Also, what machine do you have? TB105, TB110, TB80.....




Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/17/2008 08:42:07
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Fishbone

There's always time for boobs!

Here's the inside of my receiver, you probably have an HBC so this may not do you any good. I labeled the adjustment screws. I don't remember which set does which function, nor could I find our schematic.




Yours is Hetronics. The screws you identified are not the only adjustment. The three output modules in the lower-right corner (each have a yellow and a green LED) have to be adjusted also.

Mudslinger105 posted an adjustment procedure on Illinois Conveyor's forum. Last time I was there it was still available.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/17/2008 13:19:56
Message:

quote:
W9Y wrote:
Look at the cover of your receiver. If HBC, it will be a model 730 or 735.

Which do you have?

Also, what machine do you have? TB105, TB110, TB80...


I have an 80. Dunno what model I have, but will look again next time I'm close to the machine.
Cleaning the dust improved my retraction.


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/17/2008 20:35:53
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

Yours is Hetronics. The screws you identified are not the only adjustment. The three output modules in the lower-right corner (each have a yellow and a green LED) have to be adjusted also.




I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I'm not a spoon. I know I have a Hetronic.

Seriously though, do the three output modules you mentioned have to be adjusted in conjuction with the others? Or did you just mean that they can also be adjusted?

It's been over a year since we adjusted them, and we had Kevin on the phone while we were doing it, so we may have done the other three you mentioned. I don't remember.

They could still use a little fine tuning. Our old 75 is smooth as silk, but the 105's are quite touchy. All three machines have Hetronic remotes. We're both used to our own machine and can operate it smoothly, but neither 105 is as smooth and easy as they should be.




Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/18/2008 15:57:28
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Fishbone



Seriously though, do the three output modules you mentioned have to be adjusted in conjuction with the others? Or did you just mean that they can also be adjusted?


Yes, they must be adjusted in conjunction with each other. If you move a function, say swing right, you see a LED on one of the output modules light up AND a red LED in the area you pointed out. One adjustment pretty much sets the starting point and the other sets the gain.

Again, Il Conveyor web site has posting by mudslinger105 that gives step-by-step instructions.

W9Y


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/18/2008 16:05:35
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator


I have an 80.


Getting info is like trying to pull teeth. ROTEC SS-80 or Putzmeister TB-80?

If ROTEC, it's probably on an RD (long nose) Mack with Hetronic (Yellow receiver on boom rest)

If Putzmeister, it's on a MR Mack or Sterling Condor (tilt cabs) with an orange receiver on the boom rest. Receiver will be Model 730 or 735.


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/18/2008 17:06:27
Message:

Navigator's 'Stallion': http://www.concretepumpingadvice.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1183


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/18/2008 17:48:11
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

Getting info is like trying to pull teeth. ROTEC SS-80 or Putzmeister TB-80?
If ROTEC, it's probably on an RD (long nose) Mack with Hetronic (Yellow receiver on boom rest)
If Putzmeister, it's on a MR Mack or Sterling Condor (tilt cabs) with an orange receiver on the boom rest. Receiver will be Model 730 or 735.



A few weeks ago, W9Y, I couldn't spell telebelter ... Now I are one.
I have a 2001 Mack with an orange receiver on the boom rest and damned if I didn't look at it today.
You can have one of my teeth.

Speaking of pulling teeth.....You have great product knowledge, write very well, know a lot about the biz, a definite asset to our humble website and yet we know nothing about you. You might as well be Zorro...defender of concrete pumpers and telebelters around the world.
So backatcha, bub!
:-)

....But I had a great pour today!
ICF wall, a 2' stem wall (30 yards) followed by 40 yards of radon rock.
Set up plus two moves. The crew never waited.
The contractor was flat floored. He said he gained a day and a half and we were done by 1300 and not even tired.
The customer had a tractor with a narrow deep bucket about double the volume of a bobcat. From the time we started till he started scrounging for rock .... gravel was coming out the hose nonstop. It was a workout. My hoseman/dance partner used a laser to get us to grade. They had rakes but never used 'em.
You can't place rock faster than that!



Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/18/2008 21:28:13
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator
The contractor was flat floored.



I love it when a plan comes together.

Now, before we delve into the witchcraft of radio programming, you are going to have to humor me.

Telescope your boom all the way out to the stops. Look at the telescope chain BEHIND the motor sprockets. Telescope back in and see if the sprockets "dump" slack chain behind the sprockets before the boom moves.

If so, the chain is loose and the "jerk" you see is the drive recovering from the slack.

When the boom is fully telescoped, eyeball along the bottom of the length of the chain. There is a row of bolts that bolt the bottom (round) rail to the side plates. The chain should NOT sag below the top of of this line of bolts.

Check it out, take two aspirin and call me in the morning.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/18/2008 22:09:01
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

I love it when a plan comes together.

Now, before we delve into the witchcraft of radio programming, you are going to have to humor me.

Telescope your boom all the way out to the stops. Look at the telescope chain BEHIND the motor sprockets. Telescope back in and see if the sprockets "dump" slack chain behind the sprockets before the boom moves.

Nope! No slack in the chain. It says torque the chain to 50 ft pounds. Well...I guessed and matched one chain to the other using the lightening holes as a gage.

quote:
If so, the chain is loose and the "jerk" you see is the drive recovering from the slack.

No..it's not the chain. Actually when I sit where I can see the manual controls but use the remote....all the hydie controls follow my finger input at the remote. Not knowing how the remote gets it's signal...I opened the remote box and looked for something obvious. There was dust around the retract side. I cleaned that dust and the retract has improved but is not as positive as the squirt, boom or swing.

quote:

Check it out, take two aspirin and call me in the morning.



Thanks ... Dr. W9Y


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/19/2008 12:10:01
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator
No..it's not the chain. Actually when I sit where I can see the manual controls but use the remote....all the hydie controls follow my finger input at the remote.


You answered my next question.

Two more.

Does your transmitter have 1 joystick or 2?

Did it come with a Tele-Teach battery? That's a yellow battery with two silver buttons on the face.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/19/2008 17:32:33
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator
No..it's not the chain. Actually when I sit where I can see the manual controls but use the remote....all the hydie controls follow my finger input at the remote.


You answered my next question.

Two more.

Does your transmitter have 1 joystick or 2?

Did it come with a Tele-Teach battery? That's a yellow battery with two silver buttons on the face.


1 All the handles follow my input ... except the retract.
2. It's an HBC 735
3. One joystick. Left/right, in/out, up/down all on a stick on the right.
4. Yes, it has a tele-teach battery.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/19/2008 17:39:36
Message:

There sure seems to be a lot of four-play going on within this thread.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/19/2008 17:49:48
Message:

On-line dating.

Who is that masked man?


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/19/2008 17:59:36
Message:

What will you do Nav when you find out that none other than Al Gore himself is helping you program your Telly?


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/19/2008 19:54:55
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator
1 All the handles follow my input ... except the retract.
2. It's an HBC 735
3. One joystick. Left/right, in/out, up/down all on a stick on the right.
4. Yes, it has a tele-teach battery.


O-kee-do-kee

This applies to HBC Single-stick (“Ergonic”) 735 radios only. HBC double-stick boxes program differently.

Each function has 2 program settings. One is the start point and one is the gain (or max).

Make sure the Tele-teach (TT) battery is fully charged. Single stick boxes draw more power.

Set up on outriggers, ‘cause boom movement is involved. Get the feeder out of the way and on the ground. Telescope the boom about half way. Shut the remote transmitter off.

Put the TT in the transmitter, pop the e-stop out but don’t power up. Make sure the “rabbit/snail” switch is in “rabbit.” You Tele-teach “rabbit” only. If you try to Tele-teach snail, it screws the “rabbit” settings.

Hold BOTH the “+” and “-“ TT buttons in while turning on the power. The green “transmit” light should be blinking faster than normal. Release the buttons.

When programming a function, be sure to move the stick to one function only. If you pull to a corner, or pull and twist (two functions at a time) the system ignores the teach command.

Slowly move the stick to the retract side until the selector (Boom/Outrigger) valve engages and hold the stick at that point. Tap the "-“ switch to slow the retract down or the "+“ to speed it up. Tap instead of press. Pressing makes the adjustments change too quickly. The idea is to have the function barely creeping when the selector valve engages. It sounds like yours is way out, so you might have to press and hold until you see movement, then go to tapping.

When you think you have it, release the stick and do it again. Stop and hold the stick when the selector valve engages again and check for dead slow movement. You might have to do it a few times.

When satisfied, slowly move the stick to full retract while watching the telescope lever. The lever should touch its mechanical stop at the same time the joystick reaches its stop. If it hits too soon, the stick will be too sensitive. If it doesn’t hit the stop you won’t have full speed. My gut feeling is someone jacked this up, trying to increase speed, and made the stick too sensitive. The functions will only go as fast as the stack valve allows.

If max adjustment is needed, hold the stick in full retract and use “+” or “-" to adjust the max. Release the stick. Again, slowly move to the maximum joystick position and make sure the lever hits the stop at the same time as the stick.

At any time, if you bottom the extension out, extending the boom will not change what you’ve done so far. This sounds like a big deal but only takes a few minutes. All functions adjust the same way. When the transmitter power switch (NOT the e-stop) is turned off, changes are stored. Put your regular battery back in and fold up the tent.

Again, do not Tele-teach “snail.” The start points for “snail” functions are the same as in “rabbit.” “Snail” maximums are set with the “user-input” toggle switch. Only Tele-teach at minimum or maximum stick travel. Commands are ignored at midpoints.

You asked for it.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/19/2008 20:13:48
Message:

Well, that ain't Al Gore. Way to much knowledge being displayed.


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/19/2008 22:18:33
Message:

I think we found a valuable asset to the conveyor side of this site!

I hope your consulting fees are cheap, 'cause I think your ear is gonna get bent from time to time.


Reply author: ericicf
Replied on: 04/20/2008 07:11:33
Message:

Nav, when are you going to get use your a good camera ?

;-) ~ Admin


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/20/2008 11:27:10
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

Put the TT in the transmitter, pop the e-stop out but don’t power up. Make sure the “rabbit/snail” switch is in “rabbit.” You Tele-teach from “rabbit” only. If you try to Tele-teach snail, it screws the “rabbit” settings.

Hold BOTH the “+” and “-“ TT buttons in while turning on the power. The green “transmit” light should be blinking faster than normal. Release the buttons.



Great Masked Defender Of The Faith. I bow before you.

Yet, I remained confused, Your Oracle.

On my box I have a three position switch:
Up = Teleteach
Middle = Snail
Down = Wabbit

Does this make sense to The Masked Defender ~ Z?


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/20/2008 12:02:38
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator
On my box I have a three position switch:
Up = Teleteach
Middle = Snail
Down = Wabbit

Does this make sense to The Masked Defender ~ Z?


Yes. That's the "user-input" thingy I mentioned earlier. It has nothing to do with the Tele-teach battery.

Rabbit = Factory set minimums, programmable with Tele-teach BATTERY
Snail = Same factory set minimums, with maximums set by user.
Top Position = user input.

To use the user defined feature:
Using a regular battery, turn on and reset the e-stop.
Put the toggle switch in the snail (middle) position.
Hold the toggle switch up against the spring and move the stick until the function is going at the desired maximum speed.
Hold that position with the stick and release the toggle switch.

Now, if you move the stick all the way to the stop, the function will only go as fast as you set it with the user-defined feature.

If you switch back to rabbit, factory settings return. The settings you put in snail stay there until you change them. To change, repeat the above steps and let the toggle release at the new desired speed.

I doubt you'll find the feature useful, once you get the rabbit set. Rookies on 130's like it at first, but soon grow tired of making constant changes as working radius changes.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/20/2008 12:11:23
Message:

Ok...That makes sense.

Would it be correct to say that each function, swing, boom or squirt can be taught something different?

I assumed one speed was the same for all speeds?
Wrong?


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/20/2008 12:51:35
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator

Ok...That makes sense.

Would it be correct to say that each function, swing, boom or squirt can be taught something different?

I assumed one speed was the same for all speeds?
Wrong?



Ummmm, that's right, you were wrong.

Each function carries its own settings. For example, for walls you could set "Boom down" slower than "boom up."

This only applies to snail. Rabbit settings are min/max. You could set different max speeds for opposite functions, but that is what snail is for.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/20/2008 13:18:30
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

Ummmm, that's right, you were wrong.
Each function carries its own settings. For example, for walls you could set "Boom down" slower than "boom up."



Well ... that's sweet then!
The machine is probably just doing what it was taught?

It was taught to retract @ full bananas.


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/20/2008 13:25:58
Message:

Yup.

If rabbit starts to quickly, the Tele-teach set the start point too high. If the stick is too sensitive the max is set too high.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/20/2008 13:38:20
Message:

Yes.....my Wabbit speed is just too friggen high!

So then ... How do I dial that down the Wabbit speed? Not that I need to. I'm completely happy in "union" turtle mode.
... but I also own the machine.
I'm sure an employee would not appreciate weeks, months and years of smooth starts and stops, feathered swinging, proper warm ups etc., loving usage translating into dollars down the road.




Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/20/2008 16:05:27
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator

Yes.....my Wabbit speed is just too friggen high!

So then ... How do I dial that down the Wabbit speed?


The rabbit is programmed with the Tele-teach battery, as I previously outlined.

When you get the start points set and the max points set, the stick becomes fully proportional. When you move the stick to the point the selector valve comes on, the boom starts at the creep speed you set. The farther you move the stick, the faster it goes.

I get the impression you can make it go to your liking in snail. If the rabbit is too fast, somebody has probably set the high point too high. When you move the stick it comes on wide open. Use the Tele-teach battery to reset the rabbit.

If rabbit max speeds are still too high, but proportional, you can set the maximums down with the Tele-teach battery, but that is what the user-defined snail switch is for.

Run the functions manually, at the control valve. They are proportional. If max speeds are too high, there are set screws on the levers that hit stops on the valve. Decrease lever travel with the set screws. You have to remove the lever to get to the top screw. You would then have to Tele-teach the rabbit to the new stop points.

Look in the front of your manual. There should be a "Test Record" page that shows what the factory settings were for pump pressures and function times. It will show the times the test people observed for each fubction, i.e. "slew right 360 degrees, ### seconds." You can compare present times to see if somebody has "tweaked" it.


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/20/2008 16:56:52
Message:

WHO WAS THAT MASKED MAN??



Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 04/22/2008 07:47:07
Message:

It has been so long I forgot my password...
If you need help setting your speeds on Hetronic or HBC
just give me a call, I would be happy to help.

Kevin Blake
Illinois Conveyor
630-742-1300


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/22/2008 07:54:50
Message:

Thanks Kevin!

I might just do that!
I'm headed to my truck right now to take a picture of two things I adjusted but the adjustments made no difference....so I'm wondering what I adjusted.

I'm going to check if my wabbit/turtle setup and see if that resolves my retract speed problem.
Glad you made it back.

I have the website closed to new members hoping to bore the hackers who are still trying to access the site.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/22/2008 12:44:25
Message:

Ahhhhh!
Figgered out I don't have a Teleteach battery.
Ca Ching?


Reply author: ericicf
Replied on: 04/22/2008 15:35:05
Message:

Did you say you were going to poat a picture of it Nav :-) ?


Reply author: n/a
Replied on: 04/22/2008 16:47:19
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by ericicf

Did you say you were going to poat a picture of it Nav :-) ?

Is it common to ha ve a machine shipped with a tele-teach battery this is directed at Nav.?


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/22/2008 18:07:28
Message:

Ok Eric...here is my "poat" of the picture:
;-)



Those two black things at the end of my grubby fingers are what I adjusted....without a clue.
Anybody know what these things do?


Reply author: ericicf
Replied on: 04/22/2008 18:36:43
Message:

Nice pics Nav...knew you could do it :-)
You'd love Putz School for belters, you'd be fed so much info, you'd get sick :-)
Every label is identified on your schematic.
Did you get a book /CD with the machine?


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/22/2008 18:45:41
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by ericicf

Every label is identified on your schematic.
Did you get a book /CD with the machine?


Yes and no.
Not every thing matches the book I got.
In fact....we were checking a common rely, my salesman was giving me the number but number did not lined up with what he was telling me. Even in the book.
Now you got me thinking some things are missing.

Are CD's available?


Reply author: ericicf
Replied on: 04/22/2008 18:57:33
Message:

Email a jpeg of your box and stuff to the boys at Racine.
Call them first, they have 6 to 10 Engineers manning the phones daily.
Every guy in there specializes.
When I was there in '06 , they were gearing up to provide CD's with new machines.
Worth a phone call.


Reply author: Billy
Replied on: 04/22/2008 19:00:57
Message:

Nav, those control your belt speeds, they are the Belt Proportional Amplifier Cards.

I'd get the tele-teach battery from Putzmeister and follow W9Y's process for fine tuning your boom function controls. Its really very simple. (the part number is 258623006 and they run about $400)

You can make adjustments in the receiver but I turned my back when AW & DM did one of our 105's (with HBC), because as they said "If I show ya, I'd have to kill ya"

Regards,

Billy


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/22/2008 19:41:55
Message:

Nav, Billy speaks truth.

The two black cards control belt speed when you change the speed knobs on your remote. They live in what is called the "Combi Box." Boom speeds are programmed in the radio receiver, which is an orange box a little smaller than a shoe box. On the 80, I think the receiver mounts on the front of the water tank.

The signals from your transmitter are processed by the receiver and sent, via cable, to the plug on the right side of the combi box. Belt speeds are processed by the black cards you pointed out and are sent to the belt motor valves.


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/22/2008 20:36:46
Message:

Will Ptz send them out with 'deposit' let you use it and send it back and credit you back? Schwing will do that with their specialty tools. You order the parts you need along with the specialty instalation tools (seals, and instalation tool... etc) and when you send the tool back, they credit you back for the tool.

I don't see the sense in paying for something that may only get used once.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/22/2008 20:46:53
Message:

Do you think that line will work on a beautiful lady of the night?


Reply author: ericicf
Replied on: 04/22/2008 21:05:41
Message:

Giggle.


Reply author: Billy
Replied on: 04/22/2008 21:07:14
Message:

Hi, Speedy! Did you get any of the snow this last weekend?

We are supposed to see it starting on Wednesday night (but I'll be in Chicago by that time!)

Regarding the tele-teach battery, I have found that it is pretty useful to have.

We have used ours on several occasions to be able to set-up preferences for individual operators who have their own "taste" for operational speeds. You will also use it to tune-up function speeds as hydraulic components wear and tolerances move away from "new"

I used one today on our 110 to set-up speeds for a 480 yard back-fill job as it was useful to have a hotter extend & retract speed.

After that job, I then returned it to the less-aggressive speeds for my final job of the day, which was an ICF wall with more corners than a maze.

Illinois Conveyor performed a super re-furb on a TB 105 that we have and during the process, they updated the remote to Omnex controls (with belt speeds at the remote!). The Omnex remote has a "calibrate" feature that acts much like the tele-teach.

This comes in handy on long placements (hours long) when hydraulic oil temperatures begins to effect boom movement speeds. The calibrate features allows the operator to make the adjustments "on the fly" to compensate for slower function speeds at higher operating temperatures.

So while the tele-teach is pricey, I do like having it around.

Regards,

Billy


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/22/2008 21:25:16
Message:

Billy, you're keeping the road to Illinois hot in the last year or so.

You'll have to stop by again if you have time. Next time I'll try to come up with something more exciting than standing around the shop. I'd like to bend your ear a little about that Omnex also.

This now ends my hyjacking.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/22/2008 21:36:40
Message:

Excellent post Billy. That's exactly what an owner wants to be able to do for a qualified operator. Give the man the tools to make his job easier and to make the customer want you back every time. Not every operator is capable of what you just described nor is every owner able to give a $400.00 battery to every qualified operator. If I was Nav, I would be hard pressed to spend one tenth of a monthly telly payment on a battery after the winter he has had.

On a neighborly note. Nav how about you call Paul tomorrow and he will loan you a yellow battery for a few days to get things in order. I would deliver same to you but will be gone for a few weeks. Besides, my dog doesn't travel well, nor do I have an apple pie or Mom with me.
Paul Loth XX42X5x50x8x9x6x4x9.

Ok you know I'm kidding about why I can't visit you, right?


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/22/2008 22:01:48
Message:

Is this the line? "I don't see the sense in paying for something that may only get used once.".

I think they operate according to Godfather's business model; You're not paying for the pump, you're paying for the operator's expertise. Same thing there, you're not paying for the pussy, you're paying for the operator's expertise


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/22/2008 22:02:37
Message:

Nope, Nav....bad word filter still not working.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/22/2008 22:30:25
Message:

lol Speedy. Somebody had to test the bad word filter.


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 04/23/2008 06:26:48
Message:

Billy, yes we did get at least some snow, but not as much a forecast, just miserable temperatures. It was worse just to the north of us, and west into Alberta. Virtually no snow only 20 miles east....go figure the weather. The cold is going to last 'til the weekend....YUCK!


Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 04/23/2008 07:45:32
Message:

Nav, you do know that you can set your speeds in the receiver, all you have to do is remove the lid and there are
two Vary small buttons on I think the second card down, one is + and one is - and are set just like the $400. battery

also on the belt speed amp cards, the only ones you should mess with are the "Zero" and the "Max"
Easy set..
Zero.. belt on, belt speed turnd down all the way, turn zero adjust so the belt is just not moving at the lowest speed.
this will also help for the belts that creep.

Max setting.. belt on, belt speed to 100% what I do here is turn it down untill I can see it start to slow, then back up untill I don't see it get any faster, doing it this way gets you close.
I would not advise messing with any thing unless you know what it is..
it is not hard, and I can walk you through it as you do it on the phone if you like..
and as I look back at this, it is not a bad word filter that is needed but aa Spell chekr...


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/23/2008 20:10:23
Message:

Wow...so much help! I'm honored.

Jim: Thanks! In light of the info from Smoothbelt...I'd like to take the cover off and see if my eyes can even see two tiny buttons.
If that solves the problem...great!
If not...I'll gladly take you up on your offer! ;-)
As it is...I can live with it but but I'd rather provide just a bit smoother service.
I appreciate your concern for me and the winter we are just coming out of. You are spot on.

Smoothbelt: Thanks for the tips!
I think I only screwed with the max setting.
Actually...my belts stop moving at anything below the 2 setting so looks like a little fiddling is called for?
How do you match the belt speeds to each other so that a speed of 3 on the main equal a speed of 3 on the feeder?

Speedy....Yes!!! The bad word filter is now online and subject to humorous interpretations and Obamas.
So if you foul mouthed dudes can't understand why your prose is coming out so eloquent it's because there is a demented man behind the curtian rigging the joint!
;-)


EDIT: You can tell if the bad word filter is engaged.....a word mid sentence will be capitalized.

Take for example the word c h a n g e
C h a n g e is synonymous with Obama hence c h a n g e has been duly ruled a bad word and has been replaced with todays' PC Obama.


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 04/23/2008 20:36:16
Message:

The bad mouth filter is going to be humorous at times I'm sure. Thank you _Nav.

I talked with Paul about what SmoothBelt said. He says Mr Smooth is right on and agrees totally that you need to be darn sure of what you are tweaking. He says the same thing, call Smoothbelt or him (Paul) if questions. If you're confident you won't Act of Reproduction things up, then Obama em.


Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 04/24/2008 07:38:00
Message:

Nav,
you can adjust it as you like, Belt speed all the way down turn up the Zero till it starts to move then down till it just stops.
the numbers on the dial should be dots.. and are only for ref. I guess you could put a belt speed counter on it and get it right on the dime. but it is not the space shuttle and most things can be done by eye..


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/25/2008 06:39:38
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by smooth belt

Nav,
you can adjust it as you like, Belt speed all the way down turn up the Zero till it starts to move then down till it just stops.
the numbers on the dial should be dots.. and are only for ref. I guess you could put a belt speed counter on it and get it right on the dime. but it is not the space shuttle and most things can be done by eye..


I'd love to tell you your suggestion worked.....but But I'm working!

Here is another question:
I was told to use NAPA chain and cable lube for the boom slides.
I pressure washed the slides then sprayed in the grease.
After a short period of time I could hear the slides fighting themselves in what sounded like sand.
An inspection revealed the lube holding sand.
(We have lots of blowing sand here)
So I repeated the cleaning process.
Same results.
I've lots of experience with teflon and UHMW so I elected to simply clean the slides and not grease.

What is you opinion on this?


Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 04/25/2008 07:27:39
Message:

Grease or any tacky lube will hold sand and grit, works like lapping compond on you rails.
we recomend vary lite, like WD40 or nothing at all, clean rails work the best.
so if it was me, I would clean the rails and slides and call it a day...
we run 4, 10 year old 105's with clean rails, they run smooth and the rails are still in good shape


Reply author: n/a
Replied on: 04/25/2008 09:20:42
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator

[quote]Originally posted by smooth belt

Nav,


Here is another question:
I was told to use NAPA chain and cable lube for the boom slides.
I pressure washed the slides then sprayed in the grease.
After a short period of time I could hear the slides fighting themselves in what sounded like sand.
An inspection revealed the lube holding sand.
(We have lots of blowing sand here)
So I repeated the cleaning process.
Same results.
I've lots of experience with teflon and UHMW so I elected to simply clean the slides and not grease.

What is you opinion on this?



Nav. I was told at a Putz. telebelt school to use nothing on the slides.My 2 cents Terry


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 04/25/2008 10:35:30
Message:

I agree. Dry rails work best.

Whatever you use, DO NOT use anything with graphite. Graphite compounds seem to soften UHMW pads and make them sticky.


Reply author: Fishbone
Replied on: 04/25/2008 11:46:02
Message:

I'm with everyone else on this one... no lube. As mentioned above, it will eventually cause more friction.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 04/26/2008 07:01:03
Message:

I concur Doctors!
Golf on Saturday as usual?


Reply author: biged
Replied on: 04/26/2008 13:09:39
Message:

What color balls do you use in the snow ,and don't say snow balls


Reply author: zeki
Replied on: 05/02/2008 18:22:45
Message:

Chuck have you checked out the downloads site on Putz' website?

control cabinet whatchamacallits: http://www.putzmeister.com/pdfs/PMA-0010-10TB.pdf

Here's the main page to select the articles from: http://www.putzmeister.com/products/downloads/index.cfm


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/03/2008 15:03:47
Message:

Thanks Speedy
Yep...I ended up dialing up the feeder faster than the main when I was screwing around with knobs not knowing what did what. ... but it's fixed now.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/06/2008 07:15:44
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by smooth belt

Nav, you do know that you can set your speeds in the receiver, all you have to do is remove the lid and there are
two Vary small buttons on I think the second card down, one is + and one is - and are set just like the $400.00 battery.



Hi SmoothBelt!
I almost starting fiddling with adjustment stuff I know little about.... was getting kinda turned on about the prospect of poking my fingers in places they've never been before, then I thought better of it.
Was about as frustrating as my first couple of dates. Got the top off and didn't know what to do!
;-)

My fingers feel as awkward touching a printed circuit board as picking up a broom is to a lifetime welfare moocher recipient.

I thought before I messed things up I'd confirm these are the buttons you are referring to:


Taken with my cell phone scratched from the 100's of yards of sand and concrete that has gone through my pockets.

Is them two yellow buttons the target area?
Which one is plus and which one is minus?



Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/06/2008 11:54:36
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Navigator

quote:
Originally posted by smooth belt

Nav, you do know that you can set your speeds in the receiver, all you have to do is remove the lid and there are
two Vary small buttons on I think the second card down, one is + and one is - and are set just like the $400.00 battery.



Hi SmoothBelt!
I almost starting fiddling with adjustment stuff I know little about.... was getting kinda turned on about the prospect of poking my fingers in places they've never been before, then I thought better of it.
Was about as frustrating as my first couple of dates. Got the top off and didn't know what to do!
;-)

My fingers feel as awkward touching a printed circuit board as picking up a broom is to a lifetime welfare moocher recipient.

I thought before I messed things up I'd confirm these are the buttons you are referring to?:


Taken with my cell phone scratched from the 100's of yards of sand and concrete that has gone through my pockets.

Is them two yellow buttons the target area?
Which one is plus and which one is minus?

EDIT: I know the pics ain't great but the phone is up against a window just to get far enough away and I was standing on my pack of cigarettes.


Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 05/07/2008 09:29:48
Message:

Yep, The two yellow buttons are the speed settings,
I think the one on the left is + and the right - but make sure by watching the valve handle when you are just of center of a joystick hitting one of the buttons, if it moves more then you have the +
remember, you can set your starting speed and your max with the same buttoms, but only can set one funtion at a time.


Reply author: smooth belt
Replied on: 05/07/2008 11:44:31
Message:

you do know that I don't care less about you and your problems, I only come here
to see the "Speedy Girls"


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/07/2008 19:34:13
Message:

Geez, smoothbelt... Now you know why we started this forum.
Speedy need an outlet!



Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 05/09/2008 08:38:49
Message:

Be vewy vewy careful with the buttons. If you're not sure about what to do, I'd recommend keeping your meat hooks out of the receiver. I've seen radios SUBAHOW because of attempted adjustment. Use a Tele-teach battery, if at all possible. It's still possible to become SUBAHOW, but it's hard to screw up a Tele-teach battery

The operative phrase is "light taps," not "push" or "mash." If you bend the board down, you can crack the traces in the board. If you hook your finger under the board, you can do the "light taps" by squeezing with your thumb. Keep your fingers off of traces or solder connections.

The buttons are primarily for boom function speeds. Each function has an adjustment for the start point, and for the max point. Belt speeds are adjusted with the pots on the remote, although the 4-20 mA output to the belt amps can be adjusted with the buttons.

On Ergonic single-stick remotes, Tele-teach the Wabbit ONLY. The start points for Wabbit are the same as snail. Use "user-defined" to adjust max points in snail. On the new Ergonic proportional cable remotes, use the Tele-teach buttons on the side if the transmitter to program rabbit AND snail.

On the older boxes, with 2 sticks, Tele-teach BOTH rabbit and snail.


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/10/2008 07:57:57
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by whole9yards

Be vewy vewy careful with the buttons. If you're not sure about what to do, I'd recommend keeping your meat hooks out of the receiver. I've seen radios SUBAHOW because of attempted adjustment.

Love the Elmer Fudd spelling!
I'm out!
If being careful around printed circuit boards is required ... my exceptional past experience is telling me to put down my remote and back away slowly!
';-)

What is SUBAHOW?
Screwed
Op
Beyond
All
.
.
.
.
.

quote:
On Ergonic single-stick remotes, Tele-teach the Wabbit ONLY. The start points for Wabbit are the same as snail. Use "user-defined" to adjust max points in snail. On the new Ergonic proportional cable remotes, use the Tele-teach buttons on the side if the transmitter to program rabbit AND snail.


Yep.... I'm gonna need a talk through.

Jim...is the offer still good for a TT battery?
If so, tell me how much dough to send.


Reply author: whole9yards
Replied on: 05/10/2008 15:06:36
Message:

Screwed Up Beyond All Hope Of Working

"Hopper drop?" Since a Telebelt hopper drop is about a shovel full, does that mean I'm a couple rounds short of a full clip?


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 05/10/2008 16:34:12
Message:

Nav, call Paul on Monday and give him your shipping address. I figure we're even on the cost. I'll ship to you on my dime. You do the same back. Cheers!


Reply author: navigator
Replied on: 05/11/2008 07:52:25
Message:

quote:
Originally posted by Jim

Nav, call Paul on Monday and give him your shipping address. I figure we're even on the cost. I'll ship to you on my dime. You do the same back. Cheers!


You are too kind!
Maybe you'd like some Starbucks coupons?
;-)


Reply author: Jim
Replied on: 05/11/2008 11:51:41
Message:

No thanks on the Starbuck's coupons Nav. That would mean more money in Howard Shultz pocket and that might mean he would try to keep the Seattle Supersonics from leaving town. Professional basketball is at the same level as bottom feeding lawyers.


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